info Information from Raul L . (manufactured Hermes 1 NC mold for Hermes 1):
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Procedure:
- Create nose cone mold in
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- Solidworks using
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- "Solidworks mold tools
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- " (extra set of tools
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- that have to
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- be loaded in
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- ). Helpful tutorial: https://youtu.be/yqROZFStz6c
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- The final part should be one half mold piece since the two halves should be identical
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- There should be some extra area around the mold, with the alignment pins and pry slits I mentioned earlier
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- .
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- Once you’ve got the mold in
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- Solidworks, you’ll need to plot a path to cut it out using a router using
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- Mastercam, which is a program similar to
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- Solidworks but used for certain machining applications. The router is essentially a spinning drill bit that goes around 15000 RPM and cuts out shapes by translating the drill bit in X, Y, and Z Using a hydraulic control system. It’s a pretty sizable machine and you can make some very big stuff on one. For the Mastercam, basically you’ll select surfaces on the mold and then define the path the router will cut in order to machine those surfaces. You might be able to find more specific guides online, but I definitely recommend going to the guys in the hobby shop for additional assistance. Dave Robertson in Gelb might also know. Here’s the link to download it form IS&T: http://ist.mit.edu/mastercam.
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- Make the mold out of layers of MDF
- For the actual routing, I did it in the hobby shop (and again the guys who work there were a great help), although there’s also a router in Gelb that I believe Dave Robertson is in charge of. If you can’t learn the router/Mastercam from Dave then your best bet is the hobby shop. Definitely take notes on what they say about operating/using Mastercam so you can work more independently.
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- When routing, a lot of sawdust is generated, so you’ll need to follow the router tip with a vacuum to try and get most of it
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- Besides that, you can mostly relax and let the router do its job, although you’ll have to keep an eye on it to make sure It’s doing the right thing
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- Don’t be afraid to pause it and check
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- It helps to have the mold be very regular and rectangular so that it’s aligned properly with the router and CAM model
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- Once the router’s done, you’ll have to sand the mold to get a really clean finish. This takes a while. Longer than you think. Start with rougher sandpaper (400 or so) and work your way up to 1000 or 2000
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- Once it’s sanded smooth (you’ll really be able to feel how smooth it is) there’s some sort of white protective coat you’ll need to apply in thin even layers (gel coat). I forget exactly what it’s called, but applying it requires a respirator and some patience. I used about five layers on last year’s mold.
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- Actually using the mold requires a lot of lubricant/mold release. More than you think you’ll need. However, if you did a good job on the mold, the final product will look and feel really great.
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